![]() I had to deal with new issues in this machine that I haven't dealt with to the same extent with previous restorations, including serious playfield repair and some tricky playfield issue troubleshooting. ![]() Nevertheless, this one was an even better learning experience than the first. Doctor Who is still one of the most painful machines to rebuild and restore properly. I can only echo some of the comments from my first restoration. Please consider donating if you download any cards from his site. I grabbed the same custom instruction and pricing cards from Pinball Cards that I used on Doctor Who 1. There are various other homebrew guides, so search around. Various people have created homebrew kits and there is enough information online to fabricate your own parts ( Basement Arcade Classics, Missing Piece Technologies, Pinball Toys UK). There used to be several (expensive) kits you can buy that included everything you needed, but none are available anymore. The software to drive the Dalek is still present in the game, so you can motorise your own topper if you can get a motor and associated parts. Prototype games were also released with a moving Dalek topper. There are a lot of reproduction parts available locally for Doctor Who, such as decals and parts for the mini playfield ( PSPA, Mr Pinball). You can get protectors for the lock holes, as well. Wood that is directly exposed to ball impacts will never last long! The ramp protector is also a good idea if your ramp is damaged or cracked, or the factory-installed protector is missing. The mini playfield edge should have been covered with some kind of protective cover from the factory. ![]() They help cover up repair work and protect the game in the future. Cliffy makes three protectors for the mini playfield and I installed all of them on this game. The mini playfield gets smashed by balls and this is why it is usually so damaged. All of the bats on this game were original and came up well after a good clean.Ĭliffy protectors are an absolute must on Doctor Who. Doctor Who uses lightning flippers which are shorter than standard flipper bats. I replaced all of the broken lamps and installed fresh black rubbers throughout the machine, including three new black flipper rubbers. A new opto emitter ( PSPA, John's Arcade) was installed and the phantom switch hits stopped. This is what was happening when the ball hit parts of the mini playfield - the flaky transmitter would register phantom hits. When I inspected the emitter and the solder traces on the back of the board, I was able to wiggle it and trigger switch closures just by tapping it. Following this methodology, I found that one of the opto transmitters was transmitting a very weak light compared to the others. Pinwiki has a good description of how to test opto switches generally, by using an infrared camera. Faz's guide has some specific advice for testing the opto switch bank in the mini playfield. It is easy to test these assemblies when they are connected to the game as you can see whether or not they are getting the correct voltages and whether the opto transmitter and receiver are working. I pulled the mini playfield out of the game, disconnected the opto assemblies, and reconnected them to the game wiring on their own to do some testing. As the switch hits were coming from the second level of the mini playfield, this was a problem with the optical switches triggered by the mushroom buttons. But this was happening when the playfield was all the way down, and the second level wasn't even accessible to the ball. The switch that was being hit was one of the mushroom targets on the second level of the mini playfield. There was no reason for this because it would happen when the ball was nowhere near a switch. Every now and again I noticed that hitting a part of the mini playfield body (ball guides, posts, etc.) would sometimes trigger a switch hit.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |